We had been looking forward to our trek to Everest Base Camp since the inception of our trip.  Knowing that our good friend, Mike Dunnahoo, would be making a run at the summit, we knew we would have to come to Nepal at the same time.  And we are sure glad we did, as our trek was the highlight of a trip full of highlights.

We had toyed with the idea of just making the trek ourselves, without the assistance of a guide or porter.  Ultimately, however, we decided to go on an organized camping trek organized through the same Kathmandu company that was coordinating the Everest 2000  summit expedition.  And that was, 100%, absolutely, the way to go.  

It meant that instead of sleeping in smoky teahouses , dormitory style, along the trail, we slept in a nice tent, set up by the time we arrived in camp each day by our sherpa, Kancha.  All our meals were served in our private dining tent, and prepared by our cook, Pasang and served by his 3 helpers.  Our bags and camping gear was carried by our 6 porters, and we were lead on the trail by our English speaking guide, Dendi.  In all, 12 people were taking care of only the two of us.

Actually, all of the personal service, which we honestly had not expected was quite decadent, but we quickly adjusted to it.

Our journey began with a short plane ride from Kathmandu to the village of Lukla, high in the Himalaya at over 9,000 feet.  The ride was a scenic, as well as exciting, one, as it included a nose dive type landing to the short runway wedged between mountain peaks.  A great start to a great trip.  For a personal account of this plane trip, see Rich's Travelogue for March 26, 2000.

Early in our trip we were introduced to what would be a constant trail companion, and occasional moving and/or stationary roadblock: the yak.  Actually, at lower altitudes, the more common sighting (as seen here) is not a yak, but rather a dzopkyo; a crossbreed between a cow and a yak.  In either instance, they are used to ferry loads the long distances between villages in this land where wheeled modes of conveyance (whether carriage, car, bike, or wheel barrow) cannot be found.

Our first night we camped at Phakding, seen here as we pose with our Sirdar, or lead guide/trail boss, Dendi Sherpa.  We each were sporting khaki pants and light blue shirts--an impressive omen for the trek ahead.  Dendi was a fabulous guide, taking care of us throughout and ensuring that we had an excellent time.

During our trek we would periodically pass through the villages of the Khumbu Valley, all quaint and small and possessing idyllic locations at the foot of snowcapped and jagged peaks.  This is the village of Jorsale, just inside the Sagarmatha National Park.

On our second full day we made a long trek, with a good bit of altitude gain, to the village of Namche Bazaar.  Namche is the commercial hub of Sherpa life in the Khumbu Valley, and it greeted us with a mini-snowstorm, which we actually welcomed and enjoyed.

In our dining tent at Namche it was rather cold, but still comfortable as we feasted upon what our cook, Pasang, prepared for us that evening.  We also read a lot during our trip; here, Kelly displays required and topical reading for a Base Camo trek: Into Thin Air.

The village of Namche Bazaar sits nestled in a half bowl carved from a mountain side.

This is a chorten (a stone pillar of Buddhist worship) in the village of Mong, on our way to Phortse.  Beyond the prayer flags in the distance can be seen the beautiful peak of Ama Dablam.

In Phortse we were lucky to see Nepal's national bird, the Impeyan Pheasant.  Given its brilliant colors, size and shape, we at first mistook it for a radiant peacock (of which we saw many in India).

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