In February 2001, we decided to return to Latin America and take an intensive Spanish course. We chose Guatemala because the spoken Spanish is quite clear and also because we found it to be one of our favorite countries in Latin America due to its rich culture and beautiful landscapes. We decided to study in the town of Quetzaltenango which is situated up in the Western Highlands of Guatemala. Quetzaltenango is called Xela (pronounced Shay-la) by everyone both local and foreign. We are not sure why, but figure it is because it is much easier to say and spell. The population of Xela is 101,000, but it has a small town feel with its winding streets, small shops and friendly people. Xela sits at an elevation of 2335 meters (over 7000 feet), and is surrounded by volcanoes and mountains. The views are breathtaking.
Many of the residents of Xela are Quiche Maya indigenous people. They still hold on firmly to their cultures and traditions; including their colorful dress and strong work ethic.
We jumped on a bus one Friday and headed to the market in San Francisco. This was a real market filled with fruits, vegetables, coal and firewood, colorful blankets and tablecloths, and happy pigs who have no idea why they are being fed so well.
We also went into the small town of Zunil one day with our fellow classmates. The indigenous people who live here depend on agriculture and still use their traditional methods to cultivate their crops. Here a man scoops up water from the irrigation canals with a shovel and splashes it over his plants. As you climb up higher into the town, you can see laundry and corn drying on the roof tops.
The star of Zunil is San Simón. There are many legends behind this highly revered deity. Here is the one that we liked best: Many centuries ago, the Mayan religious leaders were very troubled by the fact that the Spanish missionaries were coming and converting many Mayan people to Catholicism. They went to their god and asked for help. Their god told them to take the earth and mix it with the blood of sacrificed children and build a man who would be named San Simón. San Simón helped to preserve the Mayan religion. Today he is worshipped by many who come to make offerings and ask for blessings. The most common offerings are candles. Each color represents a different request. For example, red is for love, blue is for money, yellow is for protection and black is for revenge upon enemies. Many followers also give booze and cigarettes to this lucky saint.
This brilliant church is the pride and joy of San Andres Xecul. The colorful detail reminds us a little of Howard Finster's folk art.
The San Jacinto church in Salcajá was the very first Catholic church in Central America. Services were still held in this church every Sunday until January of this year when an earth quake caused structural damage. While we could still go inside, it is very fragile.
Continue with us as we study Español at the Juan Sisay Spanish School.
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